NAUGHT NURIS: The meal we had at Naughty Nuri’s was actually my favorite in Indonesia, period. This side of the road shack with corrugateed metal roofing is a fun modern interpretation of the warung (roadside foodstall)–sort of Indonesia meets the wild west. Which makes sense, since Naughty Nuri’s is the love child of a Javanese woman and her American husband. We tried the ribs, which were delicious, and the steak sandwich, covered in cheese and peppers and onions, also very good. But the crown jewel was definitely Nuri’s sashimi plate–12 pieces of delicious, succulent raw tuna for only $4.50. Maybe best deal in Bali. (Note: sushi and sashimi only served Thursdays, when the restaurant apparantly overflows and goes standing room only…but we went for a late lunch and were fine getting a table.) Naughty Nuri’s is also famous for its martinis, which Anthony Bourdain calls the best outside New York. Apparantly another Nuri’s has opened in South Bali, and doesn’t live up to its name, although we didn’t get a chance to try it.
WARUNG IBU OKA: Again, not quite a warung, but certainly authentic. Ibu Oka serves one thing: Babi Gulung, or suckling pig, an Indonesian favorite which yes, means piglet. And how delicious. A friend told us beforehand that the pig was like an “explosion in my mouth” and to describe the experience as anything less explicit was to do it an injustice. I’m not sure I was that blown away, but it was definitely a great lunch, and as we sat on cushions on the floor eating, a huge funeral procession passed, which was cool. Obviously not suitable for vegetarians.
Some other places we tried and liked were MURNI’S WARUNG, where the food was standard Indonesian/Western fare (I liked my burger more than my companion liked his Indonesian duck, I think) but the real winner here is the insane view down a green, green gorge; and INDUS, which served us alone in the restaurant long after the other restaurants had closed. Indus has some bad reviews on line, but I loved my salmon, and again, the views were beautiful.